Le Domaine du Mékong in Mekong Indochina
and the courageous expedition history
France gained a foothold on what is now known as “French Indochina” in the 1860s. Cochinchina (Southern Vietnam) ceded its three provinces to the French, while Cambodia agreed to become a protectorate of the French Empire in order to defend itself against neighbouring Siam. Meanwhile, British-controlled Shanghai was a booming economic trading port thanks to its location at the mouth of the Yangtze River. Seeking to emulate Shanghai’s financial success, French colonial officers voted to launch an expedition “into the unknown lands north of the Mekong Delta” to make Saigon a significant port for trading along a sizeable inland waterway. Captain Ernest Doudard de Lagrée and Louis Marie Joseph Delaporte were the first Europeans to fully traverse the mighty Mekong River up through the six countries it flows through (China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam) in order to assess the navigability of the river. They also sought to create a commercial route linking Saigon to both the Siamese Empire and southern China. When Doudard de Lagrée and his small expedition departed Saigon in June of 1866, Southeast Asia’s largest river was still largely unexplored; its peoples and source were still mysterious to the world. Shortly after leaving Phnom Penh, however, the explorers discovered why there were never any southbound vessels coming from Laos on the Mekong River. At the border of Cambodia and Laos lies Khone Falls, where “Four Thousand Islands” split the Mekong into countless smaller channels, all with rapids and waterfalls untraversable by trading vessels. Undeterred, de Lagrée was forced to abandon their large steamboat at the rapids and board smaller vessels upstream. Although the expedition now realised that their primary goal of establishing a trading network along the river was unfeasible, they still intended to document remote settlements and map the undiscovered. After this point, de Lagrée’s team progressed sluggishly, resting or exploring connecting waterways and regions around towns that dot the upper Mekong’s riverbanks. The expedition would continue its journey to the origin of the majestic Mekong River in China’s Yunnan province before taking an overland route to Shanghai. Although the voyage revealed that Saigon was not a viable river port, the First French Mekong Expedition redeemed itself with an accidental discovery while heading eastward and descending upon a deep river valley. They deduced that this mighty river was most likely the Red River, which flows downstream through Hanoi and into the Gulf of Tonkin. Unlike the Mekong, the Red River was open to trading vessels — this was the inland river trading route between Vietnam and China they had been seeking all along. Sadly, in March 1868, twenty-one months after embarking from Saigon, Captain Ernest Doudard de Lagrée succumbed to dysentery and infected wounds during the final trek to Shanghai. His body was buried in Dongchuan, China. Captain Francis Garnier, with the remainder of Doudard de Lagrée’s expedition team, took over the mission and would reach Shanghai and sail back to Saigon, finally succeeding in June 1868. We honour this courageous expedition and men with their exploratory contributions to Southeast Asia.
Lives along the river remain
as they were in the past
For thousands and thousands of years, the river has been the source of food and livelihoods for millions of people - from Tibet to the Yunnan region, to Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand and Cambodia. Laid-back lifestyles and traditions centred around the river are still intact. About 5,000 km in length, this parcel of land by the riverbank in Thailand was founded and cultivated by a local family. Through wars, conflicts, separations of countries and families, and the rise and fall of kingdoms and monarchs, well into modern development and progress, the land continued to be cultivated and largely remains untouched and cherished by the same family to this day. Lives in Le Domaine du Mekong formed by the past remain and the stretch of the river that borders the land is still unnavigable as ever, left alone by most boats.
Le Domaine du Mékong today:
A self-contained agricultural park
with unique hospitality
Le Domaine du Mekong today is a self-contained estate with more than 100 rais of land by the family members put together. Their intention is to recreate this heritage spot as a tribute to the family’s legacy, as well as to the land that provides jobs and sustenance for many dependent families. It’s also a tribute to a cultural memorial of the nostalgic past. The estate comprises an agricultural park where herbs and flowers are cultivated for essential oils. A large plot of mineral-rich river bank is home to a culinary garden. Part of the hinterland plots are currently being prepared as a vineyard for upcoming development in 2024/2025. A post-harvest production centre processing essential oils and dry herbs not only provides jobs but also works as a skill centre for a community that is otherwise a sleepy town with little opportunity. A trip there now means reliving history when European culture and traditions still left an imprint on the way of life of many. Here, visitors can get a glimpse of life as part of Indochina - the last frontier of a culture that would otherwise be forgotten. This is perhaps Thailand’s most unique country estate in one of the most underrated spots of an unspoiled region.


